Motion of Water Particles Beneath Waves (Figure 7-3b) - Height increases What persistent behavior of waves produces longshore drift? Standing Waves 3.2271010. Internal waves which occur underwater and move along pycnoclines. A. Dendritic B. They occur when water masses slip over one another. Waves originate in the fetch area. In deep water most waves do not interact with the sea bottom and are called deep-water waves. The steepest angle at which sediments will be stable and NOT move down hills is called _______. labs | They occur when water masses slip over one another. The size of surface waves depends on the speed and duration of the wind, and the fetch. Other Types of Progressive Waves Waves Break by Spilling Plunging, or Surging (Figure 7-9) Breaking is determined by wave steepness Click here for ANIMATION Standing Waves As waves enter shallow water: This leads to wave refraction and waves collapse forming surf (breakers). surf | The size of surface waves depends on the speed and duration of the wind, and the fetch. Think of sloshing in bathtubs and or swinging in swing labs | Internal Waves Seas, swell, and surf are progressive waves. Standing waves can be dangerous due to the phenomenon of resonance. Which of these is a source of nonpoint pollution? Answers: A. D. changes in gas or temperature lead to the precipitation of calcite, What features are associated with karst regions? The most damaging effect of storms is not necessarily the waves alone, but the waves in combination with storm surge (elevated sea level), created by the winds which pile water up along the shore. I need help with the attached lab.. Waves affect water to a depth equal to or less than one-half their wavelength. - Low pressure which leads to a rise in sea level. lectures | A special case is a tsunami, a deepwater wave generated by a submarine disturbance with incredibly long wavelengths, high wave speeds, and very short wave heights, UNTIL they feel the bottom in shallow water! - Constructive Which of these is likely to increase erosion of sediment in the headwaters of a stream? - Drag along the bottom. Progressive waves move along the sea surface. Storm Surges - Height increases Why do some locations have especially high tidal ranges? The orbits of the water molecules become elliptical. Life History of Ocean Waves This leads to wave refraction and waves collapse forming surf (breakers). A special case is a tsunami, a deepwater wave generated by a submarine disturbance with incredibly long wavelengths, high wave speeds, and very short wave heights, UNTIL they feel the bottom in shallow water! It is the energy of the wave, not its mass that is in motion. Wave height/wave length. When this value is about 1/7, waves begin to break. [ home port | An earthquake 45 km from a city produces P and S waves that travel outward at 5000 and 3000 m/s, respectively. - Drag along the bottom. The orbits of the water molecules are circular. labs | Internal waves which occur underwater and move along pycnoclines. http://dusk.geo.orst.edu/oceans/waves.html, Tsunamis which are seismic sea waves. D. nearby cliff (with crescent shapes indicating scarp) Which of these features is found on a submergent coast, with a relative rising sea level? E. lowering of discharged Introductory Geology Water 5.11 Student Responses 1. Consider two persons holding the opposite ends of the rope. Internal Waves Standing waves can be dangerous due to the phenomenon of resonance. - Height increases - Wave form What important function do surface currents provide to the land? Storms affect shorelines in a variety of ways. Node = Fixed Point, Antinode = maximum displacement (Figure 7-11) It is due to: This interference may be: email prof. ] Resonance Oscillate back and forth about a node i.e., a fixed point. Waves Entering Shallow Water This leads to wave refraction and waves collapse forming surf (breakers). - Drag along the bottom. Water depths are less than 1/20 the wave length. A. friction of the seafloor slowing waves, causing the crest to grow The result is amplification of the wave size which can lead to flooding. - Low pressure which leads to a rise in sea level. [ home port | Waves affect water to a depth equal to or less than one-half their wavelength. Waves are disturbances that are generated on or beneath the sea surface. Angle that waves hit the shoreline In waves, the distance across which the wind is blowing is known as the what? Which feature of a wave is most important to understand the energy of a wave? Think of sloshing in bathtubs and or swinging in swing B. it infiltrates The difference between high and low tide is called what ? - Height increases 239 E. submarine canyon Wave Motions In shallow water their length shortens and their height increases dramatically. Life History of Ocean Waves (Cont.) Progressive Wave Types Period of wind or tides approximate the natural period of oscillation of the basin. They have very long periods and very large heights. In shallow water their length shortens and their height increases dramatically. The more spaced out position of water molecules in the crystal structure of ice compared to the arrangement of water molecules in liquid water causes what unique feature of water? select two, Which type of mass wasting moves rapidly and can be deadly? In shallow water their length shortens and their height increases dramatically. Speed of the waves Fetch of the waves The number of waves in the wave train Angle that waves hit the shoreline Wavelength of the waves. depending on the slope of the bottom D. Sinking creeks Breaking is determined by wave steepness An aquifer should have which of the following qualities: choose three. - Persistent onshore winds. Shore breakers (surf) are collapsing waves. [ home port | Shore breakers (surf) are collapsing waves. Wave Speed They have very long periods and very large heights. Which part of a coastal area is always under water? They are stationary and - Persistent onshore winds. In other words, as the wind increases, this also must always increase. Waves affect water to a depth equal to or less than one-half their wavelength. Node = Fixed Point, Antinode = maximum displacement (Figure 7-11) Waves originate in the fetch area. As waves enter shallow water their wavelength shortens and their height increases. The crests build up and the troughs build down. Oscillate back and forth about a node i.e., a fixed point. surf | Other Types of Progressive Waves Think of sloshing in bathtubs and or swinging in swing Shore breakers (surf) are collapsing waves. Internal Waves depending on the slope of the bottom - Speed decreases In other words, as this increases, there is a deeper reach of wave base. - Celerity labs | Period of wind or tides approximate the natural period of oscillation of the basin. A. Caverns The crests build up and the troughs build down. http://dusk.geo.orst.edu/oceans/waves.html, - Destructive Standing waves oscillate about a fixed point. Waves affect water to a depth equal to or less than one-half their wavelength. Answers: A. They have very long periods and very large heights.
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